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The sad, self-destructive cases of Alexander McQueen , John Galliano , and L’Wren Scott have put the punishing schedules of fashion designers in the spotlight. Raf Simons was creating six collections per year for Christian Dior when he stepped down abruptly in October, citing the relentless pressure of the job. For many designers, spring and fall ready-to-wear collections are joined by haute couture, menswear, and “pre-collections,” meaning resort (or cruise) and pre-fall. In addition to being creatively demanding, each collection brings the frightening prospect of critical failure and financial disaster. Editors, too, suffer from burnout, following the fashion circus from New York to Paris, London, and Milan. Diane von Furstenberg, the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, suggested in 2013 that “someday designers might show their collections only digitally”—a step that would go a long way toward putting designers—and journalists—of all backgrounds and budgets on an equal playing field. More recently, the CFDA indicated it was considering changing the format of Fashion Week , in response to concerns of consumers and designers alike. Steven Kolb, the council’s president, said: “We want to take a broken system and create a new system ... 95 percent of the people I’ve spoken to say, ‘Amen.’” There are plenty of labels and designers who are continuing to do things mostly as they’ve been done for decades—Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein will all be participating in New York Fashion Week as usual. But their choice appears to be more like an attempt to wait to see where the industry goes next than a dedicated effort to preserve the status quo. The history of how fashion shows came about points to how ill-suited the system is to a modern environment. The incongruous notion of designers presenting their fall collections in February (and their spring collections in September) can be traced all the way back Louis XIV , who imposed a strict seasonal schedule on the French textile industry in an effort to strengthen his kingdom’s finances.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2016/02/the-end-of-the-runway/461862/
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